Tucked into the quiet folds of the Dharamshala hills—where mobile networks fade and pine forests reclaim the land from cement—sits a homestay unlike most. Kosen Rufu Village Recluse isn’t remarkable for luxury or scale. It stands out for what it refuses to sacrifice: intention, integrity, and deep-rooted respect for the land.
This is not a place one stumbles upon. Reaching it requires abandoning your vehicle and walking a narrow trail through Thathri village. There are no signs, no grand entrances—just a handful of mud and slate cottages rising from the slope like they’ve always belonged there.
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A Personal Return to the Soil
The retreat was born out of longing, not trend. Filmmaker Raman Siddhartha, raised in Himachal but long based in London, returned to India with his wife and creative partner Manju Narayan in 2016. What began as a filmmaker’s exploration evolved into a personal reckoning: the forests were thinning, the mountains were being paved over, and the soul of the land was slipping away.
“I grew up around mud houses,” Raman says. “When we came back, we knew we couldn’t contribute to the same destruction we were witnessing.”
In 2018, the couple bought a steep plot of land off Khanyara Road, intending not to build a business, but a home—one that would grow into a homestay only because its story asked to be shared.
Building with the Land, Not on It
To bring their vision to life, they turned to legendary eco-architect Delia Kinzinger, known locally as Didi Contractor. A pioneer of sustainable architecture in the region, Didi was known for working entirely by hand—no AutoCAD, no shortcuts.
“She had her doubts,” Raman recalls. “But the sincerity of the project moved her.”
Every brick at Kosen Rufu was shaped from the local earth, sun-dried, and carried by mule. The walls are 18 inches thick, naturally insulated with pine dust, bamboo, and layered mud—built to withstand both time and weather. Nothing industrial was brought in. Even the slate for the roofs was sourced from nearby quarries.
Construction began in 2019 and took nearly four years—slowed by weather, lack of road access, and a steadfast refusal to use cement. “People called us foolish,” Raman laughs. “But disturbing the land wasn’t an option.”
Even today, cars stop short of the retreat. The final stretch is a walk—by design. “That was Didi’s belief,” says Raman. “The home must bend to the land, not the other way around.”
Earning the Village’s Trust
Not everyone in Thathri welcomed the idea at first. A mud house, after all, was often seen as a symbol of poverty. Complaints were filed. Whispers floated.
But slowly, through shared meals, festival visits, and quiet consistency, the couple earned their place in the village. Now, their presence is seen differently. “People have started valuing their traditional homes again,” Manju says. “That’s been our biggest win.”
A Space That Teaches You to Pause
The name Kosen Rufu, drawn from Japanese Buddhism, translates loosely to “world peace through individual happiness.” That spirit is woven through the experience.
There are no televisions, no air conditioning, and often no mobile signal. But what guests do find is clarity: the scent of pine, warm sun filtering through earthen walls, and silence that doesn’t feel empty.
Rooms start at ₹3,000 a night, with variations across cottages. Each space is fitted with eco-friendly toiletries, chemical-free bedding, and linens made by local artisans. Plastic is banned. Water tanks are crafted from insulated steel to prevent winter freezing.
“It’s not luxury in the usual sense,” says Manju. “It’s care—radical care.”
Guests often arrive unsettled by the slowness, but they leave transformed. “People come with buzzing minds,” she says, “and find something quieter inside themselves.”
A Living Blueprint for Sustainable Hospitality
Kosen Rufu isn’t just a place to stay—it’s an evolving dialogue between tradition, terrain, and modern ethics. Architect Naresh Sharma, who worked closely with both Didi and the founders, says, “You can’t copy-paste buildings in the mountains. You have to listen to the land.”
That listening has paid off. Though the retreat exceeded its original ₹2.5 crore budget by 30%, the maintenance is minimal. No erosion, no flooding, no post-monsoon panic—just solid, grounded structures that breathe with the land.
The couple now counsels local families not to demolish their ancestral homes. They’re also exploring community workshops on mud architecture and sustainable living.
Looking Forward, Growing Slowly
There are plans to add a few more cottages, but growth will be deliberate. “We’re not trying to scale this into a chain,” says Raman. “We want to deepen our roots, not widen our reach.”
What they hope to scale, instead, is awareness: that sustainability is not an aesthetic, but a responsibility. Not a trend, but a value.
Kosen Rufu doesn’t sell you an escape—it offers a return. To the soil, the self, and a way of living that modern life has all but forgotten. It doesn’t preach. It invites.
As Manju puts it: “We’re not offering luxury. We’re offering perspective.”
FAQs: Guidelines for Living in the Mountains
❓ Why do the mountains require a different way of living?
Mountain ecosystems are ecologically sensitive and often lack the infrastructure to handle modern urban lifestyles. Waste management, construction, water use, and even noise can have outsized impacts here. Living in the mountains means adapting to nature—not expecting nature to adapt to you.
❓ Can I build a house like I would in the city?
Not advisable. Traditional mountain architecture uses local materials like mud, stone, and wood because they insulate well, breathe with the climate, and don’t strain the terrain. Heavy concrete structures often lead to land erosion, water runoff issues, and even structural collapse during landslides or earthquakes.
✅ Do: Consult eco-architects and local masons.
❌ Don’t: Flatten land or use heavy machinery unnecessarily.
❓ Is it okay to drive directly to my home or stay?
Where possible, limit vehicle access. Road-building and frequent traffic can destabilize mountain slopes, disrupt wildlife, and increase dust and pollution.
✅ Do: Walk the last stretch if feasible.
❌ Don’t: Push for driveways or parking spaces at every doorstep.
❓ How should I manage waste and plastic use?
Waste disposal is a major issue in mountain areas due to lack of formal collection systems.
✅ Do: Carry your waste back with you or compost biodegradable materials.
❌ Don’t: Leave behind single-use plastics or burn waste, which releases harmful toxins.
Many communities are now banning packaged snacks, bottled water, and disposable cutlery—bring reusables.
❓ Can I use generators or loud music for events or stays?
Sound carries differently in the mountains and can disrupt both wildlife and human communities.
✅ Do: Embrace the natural quiet.
❌ Don’t: Use loudspeakers, honk, or run generators unnecessarily.
❓ How should I use water responsibly?
Water scarcity is real, especially in dry months. Overuse or leakage in plumbing can deplete shared village sources.
✅ Do: Use bucket baths, fix leaks, and reuse greywater where possible.
❌ Don’t: Use washing machines, pressure showers, or water gardens excessively.
❓ Can I bring pets or exotic plants with me?
Pets (especially unsupervised dogs) can harm local wildlife or threaten community livestock. Non-native plants may become invasive and affect the biodiversity.
✅ Do: Keep pets under control and plant native species.
❌ Don’t: Introduce alien flora or let pets roam freely.
❓ How do I integrate respectfully with local communities?
Living in the mountains often means living among people with deep-rooted traditions and collective values.
✅ Do: Attend local events, learn the language, and follow cultural norms.
❌ Don’t: Assume your city habits apply. Always ask before photographing people or entering private lands.
❓ Can I install Wi-Fi, ACs, or satellite TVs?
While possible, consider whether you truly need them. Many mountain homes are naturally cool or warm depending on the season. Excess power consumption strains local grids, and high-speed internet may not always be available.
✅ Do: Prioritize off-grid or low-energy alternatives.
❌ Don’t: Overload the system with power-hungry appliances.
❓ What should I pack when visiting or relocating to a mountain home?
- Reusable water bottles & containers
- Natural or biodegradable toiletries
- Layers of clothing instead of synthetic warmers
- Solar chargers or power banks
- Flashlight/headlamp (power cuts are common)
- Respect, curiosity, and patience
❓ What’s the most important thing to remember?
Slow down. The mountains have their own pace. Living here means unlearning habits of speed, excess, and convenience—and embracing a way of life that values quiet, balance, and humility.
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